We don’t make pork chops very often, so when we do, we want them to be extra special. That doesn’t mean extra work, it just means using a little technique to make sure they’re perfectly cooked, juicy and tender. Hence: dry-brined pork chops, and here’s why we like that method.
If you’ve always found pork chops to be dry and tough, you’re not alone. In the U.S., there’s still the incorrect idea that for pork to be “safe”, it has to be cooked to well-done (140 to 150ºF). This idea came from a time when pork had a very slight chance of trichinosis. This is no longer a risk, but most people still cook pork to way too high a temperature, pretty much guaranteeing it will be dry. Couple that with pork being bred to be leaner over the years, and it’s even more of a challenge.
Choosing a Pork Chop
The first task is finding really good pork. Since this is an occasional indulgence, if we can we try to buy from small, local butchers where we know the animals were ethically raised and the meat will be excellent. Obviously, this isn’t possible for everyone (or even us, all the time, depending on finances), so wherever you source from, look for thick cut chops, preferably from the blade end (which will have more marbling). A decent fat-cap along the edge is also a good sign.
A dry brine is the key to moist, flavorful pork chops
A dry brine uses the properties of salt to impart moisture and flavor into meat. Through the process of osmosis, liquid will cross a boundary to try to equalize the concentration of salt on both sides. In other words, if the outside of the meat is saltier than the inside, the natural moisture in the meat will be drawn out. The salt on the surface will dissolve into that moisture, creating a concentrated brine.
Over the course of several hours, that brine diffuses back into the meat. This salt loosens the pork’s protein structure, letting it retain that moisture when cooked.
In non-science terms, dry-brined pork chops are juicier, more tender, and seasoned throughout, not just on the surface.
The key ingredient is salt, but sugar also helps impart flavor, but even more, it helps with browning. For these pork chops, our dry brine consists of kosher salt, brown sugar, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, MSG and a tiny bit of baking powder.
We use baking powder on poultry to help crisp the skin, but it also raises the pH on the surface of the meat, speeding up the Maillard reaction (browning) at lower temperatures. Adding a little here will help us get a deep golden crust quickly, so the pork chops don’t overcook.
Reverse-searing keeps it juicy
Reverse-searing is the method of first cooking something gently, at a low temperature, so you can be precise about how done you want it to be. Then searing it in a very hot pan to brown the surface and finish the cooking. It’s similar to sous vide: most of the cooking is done low and slow, allowing a lot more control.
It’s a great method for pork, especially leaner cuts like tenderloin, because they dry out very easily. Once the dry brine has done its work, cook the chops in a 250ºF oven until a thermometer inserted into the center of the chops registers about 115°F. If you like pork closer to medium-well, you could go a few degrees higher but going too high will dry it out. This should take about 35 minutes, depending on the thickness, but begin checking after 25 minutes.
If you’re making the Sweet and Spicy Sautéed Plums to go with them, cook them now if you haven’t made them in advance.
Once the temperature of the pork chops is good, the chops are ready to be pan-seared. Use a carbon steel or cast iron skillet, if you have one. Stainless steel will also work but we don’t recommend non-stick for high-heat searing.
Let the oil heat oil over medium-high until just smoking. Use tongs to hold the chops together, then hold them fat-side down to sear the fat caps until they’re brown. Then lay the chops flat and gently press with tongs to make sure they have good contact with the pan. Cook, turning them occasionally, until they start to brown, about 1 1/2 minutes. Both the sugar and the baking powder will help them brown very quickly.
Finish them by butter basting (that thing you’ve probably seen chefs do on the internet). Just add butter to the skillet, along with some shallots, smashed garlic cloves and fresh thyme sprigs. Continue cooking, tilting the pan if you need, to spoon the butter and aromatics on top of the chops. They’ll develop that deep golden brown crust after about 2 minutes longer.
Check the temperature again, aiming for between 120 and 130°F for medium-rare – rosy pink centers but fully cooked. This is how we like them. You could let them go between 130 and 140°F for medium (still pretty juicy, but white all the way through).
Remove the pan from heat and transfer the chops to a clean rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the butter and aromatics over the chops and let them rest for 3 to 5 minutes.
Dry-brined Pork Chops with Spicy Plums
Equipment
- Rimmed baking sheet with wire rack
- Instant-read thermometer
Ingredients
Dry Brine:
- 3 tablespoons kosher salt Diamond Crystal, use 1 1/2 Tbs for Morton
- 3 tablespoons light brown sugar packed
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- ½ teaspoon garlic powder
- ½ teaspoon onion powder
- ½ teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon MSG
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
For the Pork Chops:
- 2 – 4 bone-in pork rib chops preferably blade-end, 1 1/2 inches thick (12 to 16 ounces each)
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 large shallot thinly sliced
- 2 large cloves garlic peeled and smashed
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
For serving:
- Spicy Sautéed Plums
Instructions
- Add the dry brine ingredients to a small bowl and mix together until combined.
- Pat pork chops dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle pork chops generously on all sides with the dry brine. You may have some left over, but chops should be well coated). Transfer to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 6 and, even better, up to 24 hours.
- Let pork chops rest at room temperature for 10 minutes. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 250°F and set a rack in the middle. Place baking sheet with pork chops still on the rack in the oven and cook until an instant read thermometer inserted into the center of the chops registers about 115°F (about 35 minutes, depending on thickness, but check after 25 minutes).
- If using, make the Sweet and Spicy Sautéed Plums while pork is cooking (if not made ahead) and set aside until ready to serve.
- When pork chops are at temperature, heat oil in a large carbon steel or cast iron skillet (or stainless steel, but don’t use non-stick) over medium-high heat until just smoking. Stack pork chops with tongs, hold them on their sides, and sear the fat caps on the edges until brown, about 2 minutes.
- Lay pork chops flat and gently press with tongs to make sure they have good contact with the pan. Cook, turning them occasionally, until they start to brown, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add butter, shallots, garlic and thyme to skillet. Continue cooking, tilting pan if needed to spoon the butter and aromatics on top of the chops until they turn golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes longer.
- Check temperature again, aiming for between 120 and 130°F for medium-rare (rosy pink centers but fully cooked, our preference). Or between 130 and 140°F for medium (still juicy, but white all the way through).
- Remove pan from heat, transfer chops to a clean rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, pour butter and aromatics over the chops and let them rest for 3 to 5 minutes.
- Serve hot, topped with Sweet and Spicy Sautéed Plums